Fire Rated Fixed Downlight - Insulation safe

If you install a standard or fire rated downlight in or under insulation you may encounter some problems with overheating because the heat generated by the lamp has nowhere to go. At best the lamplife is reduced, at worse the insulation, ceiling and fixture are damaged by heat and may even be a cause of short circuits or ignition.

What is worrying is that for some years fire rated downlights have been installed in or under insulation with the wrong belief that the fixture is fire rated so won't be affected by heat!

This design uses a heat sink (seen in the photographs) and this is a metal device that uses thermal contact to absorb and dissipate thermal energy from the lamp to a lower temperature object that has a much greater heat capacity. This process acts as a cooling mechanism because of thermal equilibrium. Simply put the heat sink takes the heat from the source and cools itself more quickly than the housing.

So where and how can this be used?

Loft insulation (blanket/quilt/roll) Mineral fibre or fibreglass matting Install the downlight and roll the insulation over the top - don't push down around the fixture. Additional insulation (second layer) can be rolled over the top

Loft insulation (Loose-fill loft insulation materials) You cannot cover the heat sink on this product with loose-fill insulation. While you may be installing the loose fill to a depth of 200mm elsewhere it must be reduced to a depth lower than the heat sink in the vicinity of a downlight. 

Insulated plasterboard (foam or polystyrene) Cut the hole for the downlight through the plasterboard and insulation. Break away about an inch of insulation to allow room for the fixing clips. The heat sink must be either in the ventilated void or have access to the ventilated void.

Rigid insulation between rafters (foam or polystyrene) You can use this fitting only if the heat sink is either in the ventilated void or have access to the ventilated void. If the fixture has rigid insulation over and around the heat sink the unit will overheat.

This fitting is supplied with a mains polished aluminium reflector (PAR) lamp

• 90 minutes fire rated housing with intumescent seals
• Designed for use in or under insulation
• Twist lock lamp fixing - easy install and relamp
• Adjustable and IP65 versions available

Specification
Number Of Lamps	1
Lamp Type	GU10 - Mains Halogen Reflector
Spare Lamps	GU10 Mains Halogen lamps - 10 Pack
Lamps Included	Yes
Dimmable?	Yes on standard dimmer Standard dimmers are recommended for mains voltage lighting only. Leading edge phase cut dimmer Good quality leading edge dimmers can be used on wire-wound transformers and compatible electronic transformers. If audible noise is produced we suggest you change to good quality dimmer from Richmond Lighting. When selecting a dimmer add up the wattages of the bulbs (or transformers) you wish to dim and choose a dimmer with a suitable maximum load rating. Trailing edge transistor dimmer For use with dimmable electronic transformers (that are compatible with trailing edge technology). These dimmers are not suitable for wire-wound transformers. When selecting a dimmer add up the wattages of the bulbs (or transformers) you wish to dim and choose a dimmer with a suitable maximum load rating.
Max Wattage	50w
Width/Diameter	90mm
Height	95mm
Cut-Out Diameter	80mm
Construction	Steel, Aluminium & Glass
Wiring Details	Class 1 - Requires an Earth Connection

Availability: Normally in stock - delivered in 5-7 days

I have problems with the connectors that 'carbon up', causing bad contact and eventually no light. The bulb pins also discolour and have to be cleaned, which shows overheating.The bulbs are aluminium backed and the connections have been all changed but to no avail. Can you please advise. Well, it sounds like you have a 12v downlight and the issue is caused by poor electrical contact. Arcing can result from a high current trying to pass through an electrical contact at least it creates carbon, at worse it crease heat and can cause a fire. You should replace the lampholder, the terminal block and consider replacing the lamp as we have heard of cases where cheap lamps have been manufactured with stainless steel pins which do not conduct electricity as well as nickel. Tinning the wires with solder can also provide a better electrical contact. You could always replace your light with one from Lighting styles and avoid the issue!

Hello, I have four standard (i.e. not insulation safe) mains GU10 downlights in my hallway. Have discovered that builders covered two of them with insulation causing them to overheat & wiring to melt. Was surprised to find that the other two downlights, two metres away and NOT covered by insulation & in ceiling void with plenty of air circulation, also had some of their wiring insulation discoloured, suggesting they might also be overheating (albeit not as much as the other two). Has anyone come across this? Should I replace all four downlights? A by-product of light is heat and when the wiring used is not protected from the heat (or heat resistant flex or cable is not used) there will be degradation. We have been banging the drum for years about GU10 lamps and builders over reliance on using them without ensuring their is adequate ventilation. If the wiring that needs replacing is between the lamp and the terminal block these are available (search for SAMLHGU10) if the lighting circuit flex/cable is damaged this should be replaced also.